Juke Joint Fest

We all know my preference is to attempt to write some entertaining story about my travels. But we've come to realize that when I'm in Texas, for some reason, I don't seem to write as much as when I'm on the road. I think it has to do with smoke. You know, the kind from the fires I cook over when I'm traveling.

So, before this becomes old news, rather than try to be creative, I'm going to just do a trip log of my recent trip to Clarksdale, MS for the Juke Joint Festival. I've heard and read about this fest for quite some time, but have never made it. After last year's King Biscuit, and then spending time with Ronnie and Tammy in Clarksdale, and their recommendation, I knew I wouldn't miss it this year.

So, lets get to the trip!
I rode the bike down on Friday. Got there in time to catch some music on the streets, including Pork Chop Willie (I'm sure the fact that a pretty lady on a fiddle caught my eye won't be a surprise to anyone that knows me, but the rest of the group was pretty good too! (8-) Alright, we gotta give props to Melissa Tong, Kinney Kimbrough and Eric Deaton, along with Bill "Pork Chop").





My main focus for Friday night, and the reason I made sure I was there before 9pm was to see Blue Mother Tupelo at the Delta Amazement Cafe. Ronnie told me about the band last fall, and the bar....well, its real name is the Delta AMUSEment Cafe, but I'm always AMAZED the place is in business, so I've renamed it. If you don't know what I'm talking about, you'll just have to experience it some day (a blog for another time). Anyway, Blue Mother Tupelo is a husband and wife team (along with a young drummer guy) that has so much energy and feel that the entire place was charged! I enjoyed them so much so that I made sure to catch them the next day for another round of great country blues music. And yes, that's the first time I've experienced a tambourine solo. There's just something about experiencing music when you can tell that the folks on stage are having so much fun.

Alright, I'm only into my third beer tonight and I can tell this is getting long, so I'm gonna just post some pictures.

Robert "Wolfman" Belfour (who I was fortunate enough to have caught at Red's Lounge on a previous trip to Clarksdale).

Mr. Tater the Music Maker. Actually, I didn't see Tater perform on this trip, but have many times on past trips. He was looking so fine this day that I had to get a picture. What a better shot than a blues man in front of a train? Okay, it would have been better if it was a box-car type train, but ya gotta work with what ya got, and there were no pretty ladies around at the time.






Now, if you wanna see a show, be sure to catch Reverand Payton's Big Damn Band. This shot doesn't give you a feel for the show. Check out the other pictures (I'll post the link at the end) that include his wife on washboard.Okay, its time to talk about friends. Like I mentioned earlier, I've been planning this trip since I left Clarksdale last fall. And Ronnie and Tammy (you remember them from last fall, right?) were again gracious hosts, giving me a place to stay, great food and great company. Last fall it was Tammy's birthday, and this trip it was their anniversary! These are great people.

Also staying at their house was Kim "BluesDawg" Mason. Here he is at Tricia's Italian Restaurant and Pie Hole, with LaLa. More on Tricia's later. LaLa plays a mean keyboard (again, follow the picture link). You can catch her solo, as well as with Super Chikan.


And lets not forget Vinnie C (he was playing on the streets as well) and Lori who also stayed out in Duncan with us. After all, Ronnie and Tammy live in a 2 bedroom house, so there was PLENTY of room for all of us, and Delta and Biscuit, their dogs.

Alright, its time to mention the really great part about this festival - THE PEOPLE! Blues folks are a great crowd. My estimate is that there were about 2-3000 people there, tops. Musicians on many, many streets and in the clubs at night. Chairs set up 5 feet from the band. By the end of the third day, you've basically been "hanging out" with all the same folks so much that you're old friends.

Speaking of ole friends, Joy and Kricket from Baton Rouge decided last minute to drive up for the fest (and even scored a hotel room in a town that's been booked up for 6 months!). The funny part is that they both forgot their cameras, so I ended up playing "photographer to the stars" all weekend, including this shot with Honey Boy Edwards on Sunday morning at breakfast.

Here's another Kodak moment with T-Model Ford. The series of pictures I took tells a story, although I'm not so sure I wanna know what the story was.

Now lets talk about magical musical moments. At an event like this, you never know who is going to step in and play with who. What's really special is when one of the older 'masters' plays with a younger blues player. Like when CeDell Davis rolled in and joined Malcolm of "Lightnin' Malcolm and Cedric Burnside".Of course Cedric has his time, with T-Model Ford.

Another great time was folks joining in with Honeyboy Edwards. First Billy Gibson.

And then it was Marquee (sorry, I don't really know the spelling of his name.) I saw him last fall at Hopson's during PineTop's Homecoming. He played with Michael Burke and tore it up! The great thing about this kid is his respect for his elders. You can see it in his face as he was 'following' Honeyboy. Here's Big George Brock's band (he's in red) when Malcolm joined them as well.


I I even managed to catch Rev KM Williams and Jackson (aka TrainWreck) at Ground Zero on Sunday. They are from Dallas and I actually got to visit with them a bit earlier in the day.
Oh yeah, we are way out of order of the weekend, but I got off track telling ya bout folks I saw. My pick for the busiest man of the weekend was Bill Abel. He played with and for pretty much everyone, including a few solo appearances.

Here he is with Cadillac John.

And here he is with Honey Boy.



And, with T-Model and Deak Harp.















Here's The Homemade Jamz Band at Ground Zero. I think I wrote about them at a Chicago Blues Fest. 3 kids and their dad. They've won many contests and awards. I was duely impressed when I saw their mention and display at the BB King Museum in Indianola, MS (I know, I still need to write about that part of the trip last fall). Be sure to notice the guitars. And yes, that's their little sister on drums.


Here's L.C. Ulmer at Trishia's


And of course Terry "Harmonica" Bean, who also ran one heck of a jam at Red's that night. By the way, if anyone knows who Jackie is, she signed my t-shirt and I don't much remember why. At least I woke up with MY OWN t-shirt, this time! (Just kidding Mom. I always wake up with my own clothes! LOL)


I could show you a picture of Robert "Bilbo" Walker and his band, but I kinda like this one better, since it also shows my bike!




Okay, its time to take a break from the musicians and talk about the people again. Unless you've ever traveled with me, its hard to explain how sometimes things "just happen". Like "Wildman's Den of Sin" next to the nuclear reactor in Mississippi. Or closing down PEARL after a great night of music. Finding a sword fish (less the sword) in the dumpster at The Hole In the Wall. Well, you get the idea. For this fest, the magic was in discovering Tricia's Italian Restaurant and Pie Hole. Yep, that's what its called. Or I should say that's what its going to be called, when they officially open. For the fest, HuckFinn was grilling sausage out front, Jo was serving food inside and Tricia and Steve were gracious (VERY gracious) hosts. Sorry, I can't remember Huck's friend's name, but she was running around helping a lot too.
Here's the story - They are all from Indiana! Steve and Tricia are moving down to Clarksdale to open their dream place. Aparently there were many road trips to get the place in a state where they could just open the doors (gut it from the previous furniture store?) and host a tail-gate style party! And pies! This lady can cook pies! These folks hauled polish/italian sausage down from Chicago! And cold beer! Okay, like I said, there's no way I can explain events of the weekend around this place. The people I met. The music I heard. The pie I ate (and got to take home!)!!! But most of all, the hospitality that they showed. If ANYONE ever goes to Clarksdale, MS you BETTER go to Trcia's (its across from Yazoo Avenue Park (and the Bluesberry Cafe) on Yazoo Ave. You might even mention my name. It probably won't help any, but I'm pretty sure it won't get you thrown out.

Well, time to wrap this up. Tricia's was my big discovery. I made a lot of friends I hope to see again, like Jeff and Mary Anne Norwood (Jeff is a musician and played there, Mary Anne is a photographer and was polite enough to hang out with me at many stages).

Of course there's Joy, my blues-twin. I think we hit just about every venue on Saturday and even drove out in the Blues Caddy to Hopson's to catch Big George Brock.





Here's the link to all of my pictures from Juke Joint Fest 2009 - http://tinyurl.com/JukeJoint09

See ya at the next fest.
Life is Good, So are the blues

THE Po’ Monkey Experience Part 2

I’m back. Its time to finish the story about my trip to Po’ Monkey’s Lounge, in Merigold, MS.

Now you can go follow that link if you are interested to hear about how a sharecropper’s shack became a famous juke joint. Here’s another write-up, by the New York Times - http://www.nytimes.com/2007/03/02/us/02jukejoint.html.


Well, I told Ronnie (remember Ronnie?) all about Larry and that I was planning on running out there Thursday night and he was more than welcome to join for my little adventure. He also invited Greg, a friend of his from Helena to join us. So we pitched in to put gas in Greg’s car (you don’t think I’d take MY vehicle out there, do ya?) and Ronnie offered to be designated driver, and off we went. Given the lack of road markings, it was a good thing I had scoped the place out during the day so we found it without too much problem (we had more problems getting out of Clarksdale, but that’s another story).

To say we ‘stood out like a sore thumb’ is probably a bit of an understatement, but as I walked up to get a beer when we got there, a man approached me, offered his hand and introduced himself as Monkey, and welcomed me to his place! It was going to be a good night. It was still early and we pretty much had our choice of seats. Ronnie seemed to find comfort and a connection with Monkey’s interest in tractors as well and found a nice comfortable spot at the end of a table that turned out to be the perfect place to see EVERYTHING that was happening all night. Here’s Ronnie and Greg.

People were strolling in, with the DJ playing R&B (they don’t have bands there except for special occasions) and we were enjoying looking at the uniqueness of the place. There were stuffed monkeys and various other ‘decorations’ hanging everywhere, including beads, banners and a disco ball. About 30 minutes after we got there, Larry came strolling in. When he saw me, he told me he had called Monkey asking if a guy on a bike was there yet, and then yelled “hey, this is the guy I was calling you about!” Again, how much more comfortable can you feel when you realize they are checking to make sure you showed up. Or, perhaps…..nah, he was truly hoping I’d show up for good reasons. Right?

At this point, Larry started coming out of the backroom with various gag items, telling jokes and pulling coins out from behind the ears of some of the gals that had sat at the other end of our table. We were all having a big time. I told Larry I’d really like to get a picture with he and Monkey at some point and after a while he said “better get yer picture now before it gets too wild”. I’m the guy on the right. LOL

What’s hilarious is the fact that other than when this picture was taken, these guys were usually smiling! I guess that’s their camera faces. I hope this picture of Larry doesn’t offend anyone, but this was actually the least offensive of all pictures of him, but at least it shows him smiling, as well as an idea of his antics, and some of the crowd we were partying with. Also, Monkey is known to come out in brightly colored suits, which he changes quite often, but I guess since he’d been working in the fields all day, he settled for various wigs on this particular night.




I had a chance to visit with some regulars while listening to some fun music and having a great time. The place filled up pretty good, and probably even more so as it got even later, but we had a bit of a drive. Here’s a picture of some of the folks dancing, which also gives you an idea of the years of decorations. Looking at the picture I’d like to reassure you that the guy in the blue and white shirt is not throwing a punch, but rather dancing. Notice where his left hand is.

Also, there’s a little story involving the gal in the beige shirt up front. When we decided it was time to go, I went to the restroom before the drive home. When I came out, and I was crossing the dance floor, she grabbed me and said “you’re not leavin till you dance with me.” I didn’t have any problem with this (none of y’all were there to laugh at me), but as I started dancing I looked up to see Ronnie holding up my jacket and saying “we’ll see ya outside”, as he and Greg walked out the door! I guess they didn’t want to have to dance to leave, and I was on my own! LOL

Well, that’s an overview of my Po’ Monkey adventure. Another opportunity to experience blues history and meet some great people. I’ll definitely go back next time I’m in the area. I’m sure by then, Larry will have some new jokes and Monkey will have some other wigs or suits!

Life is Good. Po’ is relative!
Lon

A Commentary by Lon?

I know, you came here hoping to find a story about a blues fest or a motorcycle ride, or perhaps some story written with a lot of poetic license involving references to beer and/or shaving my head. But, since I didn’t make it to church on this fine, overcast, fall Sunday morning, I decided to write up something that has been on my mind for quite some time.

Now, I’ll joke with my friends about political subjects, typically taking the opposite side of what they think, regardless of fact. But I don’t usually take a side or a stance, mainly because I can see both sides of many of the issues, and don’t usually agree 100% with either. But since the presidential elections and all the bickering I’ve gotten a little put out by some of the things I’ve been hearing. Namely people complaining about the ideas of “redistributing the wealth” and taking from the rich and giving to the undeserving. To my Republican friends, frankly some of you are sounding pretty selfish with your “its my money, I shouldn’t have to share it with anyone” attitude.

But this rant isn’t about politics. It’s about giving. What happened to people helping their neighbor because they want to, not cause the government tells them they have to? I can’t help to think that if people had more of a caring and sharing attitude, maybe we wouldn’t need so many rules, regulations and taxes.

1 John 3:17-18 (New International Version)

17 If anyone has material possessions and sees his brother in need but has no pity on him, how can the love of God be in him? 18 Dear children, let us not love with words or tongue but with actions and in truth.

And now we are talking about an economy that is in trouble, and the news is filled with stories about the “holiday shopping season”, and how retailers are trying to draw people in to buy from their businesses. Do these businesses care that people are losing their homes, or having problems paying their utility bills? Of course not, because those people are worried about maintaining their standard of living and their jobs. I’m not criticizing people that are trying to separate you and your money, but rather hoping you’ll realize that they aren’t looking out for your best interest. That “SALE” that is going on isn’t there to help YOU!

Last year, my sister and brother came up with a great alternative to exchanging Christmas gifts amongst the family. Each family researched and chose a “cause”, if you will, to make a contribution to. There were no rules with respect to what the cause could be or the contribution itself. The point was to bring the individual families together to help those that are less fortunate, in the spirit of the season. And then to share their choice with the rest of the family. It didn’t matter if it was shopping to provide products and services, or sending a gift of money, the purpose was to help other’s in any way we could, in the name of Christmas (and Jesus Christ, if I may add that).

Now, I’m not sharing this to toot our horns. I know there are families out there that are doing much more than this. My reason for telling this is to maybe provoke some thought as to what we can do to share our good fortunes with some that might be less fortunate. And sharing happily, not because someone tells us we have to. You might be saying “But Lon, I’m one of those people that is having problems meeting my bills, you can’t possibly expect ME to give money to some charity.” Definitely NOT! I’m not suggesting anyone jeopardize their own financial situation in the name of giving (although if you’d like to discuss my opinions and experiences with tithing, I’d be more than happy to have that discussion!). What I am suggesting is that you look for ways that YOU can help others. Maybe its mowing the yard of a neighbor that is unable to. Or perhaps your family volunteers to deliver meals to someone that can’t leave their home. Maybe you collect blankets from neighbors and family, to donate to a shelter. You get the idea – you don’t have to spend money to show compassion. Maybe you have time to give; or knowledge to share; or a skill to use to make someone else’s life just a little bit better. And imagine, if you can, how it will affect those in your family. Trust me, hearing about organizations, both local and international, that were helped by the Ricker/Roberts families was far better than watching anyone open a present!

So I challenge you that this year, instead of drawing names or buying presents for everyone in your family (be it immediate or extended), why not suggest volunteering everyone’s time to help a family or organization in need? There ARE two rules to this little challenge – 1) You must do it joyfully, not begrudgingly, and 2) you must not do it so you can brag about it!

Matthew 6:1-4 (New International Version)

1 "Be careful not to do your 'acts of righteousness' before men, to be seen by them. If you do, you will have no reward from your Father in heaven.

2 "So when you give to the needy, do not announce it with trumpets, as the hypocrites do in the synagogues and on the streets, to be honored by men. I tell you the truth, they have received their reward in full. 3 But when you give to the needy, do not let your left hand know what your right hand is doing, 4 so that your giving may be in secret. Then your Father, who sees what is done in secret, will reward you.

Life is Good.

Give Joyfully.

Lon

Back in Texas

I know, I have lots to write about, including my adventures at Po' Monkeys Lounge, Indianola, MS and the BB King Museum, and a weekend in Southern Mississippi with Rick and Tank. But, just in case anyone is trying to keep up with my whereabouts, I wanted to let you know I'm back in Wylie, TX.


The campground is open for business, so if you are in the area and want a place to park, or would like to come by for a bonfire, please do!

Life is Good,
Texas ain't bad.
Lon

Finally, The Po’ Monkey Experience - Part 1

Well, I’ve already posted stories and pictures from some of my blues ramblings. You can check out this site for more information about the Blues Trail, which is the Mississippi Blues Commission’s effort to commemorate more than 120 historical and interpretive sights relating to the blues (http://www.msbluestrail.org/blues_trail/). I also want to mention my travel ‘bible’ with regards to blues sites and information, “blues Traveling – The Holy Sites of Delta Blues”, by Steve Cheseborough. Ronnie had recommended this invaluable book, which I picked up at Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art, Inc., in Clarksdale (http://www.cathead.biz/).

This post is going to be about some happenings one day while I was running around on the bike checking out history and snapping pictures. I was in Tutwiler, MS , and even though I had just taken pictures of a local map to the site of Sonny Boy Williamson II’s grave site, I still seemed to miss my turn (somehow I missed “the intersection with the gas meter”, which turned out to be a few pipes coming out of the ground, covered by tall grass), so I stopped short of a stop sign, turned the bike off and pulled “the book” out.

About this time a pickup truck came down the crossroad from my right and made a left turn, heading in the direction I just came from. The truck came to a stop and the driver asked what I was looking for. I read him for a local just looking for an opportunity to help, and boy was I right! When I told him I was looking for Sonny Boy’s grave site, he shut off his truck, which was parked in the middle of the road, and hopped out to give me directions! I explained I was cruising around checking out old blues ‘stuff’ and besides the grave I was also heading to Po’ Monkey’s juke joint, and did he have any suggestions of other places I should check out.

At that point I couldn’t have felt more welcomed and fortunate. Turns out this man has been friends with “Monkey” for 30 years and told me all kinds of stories about Monkey, the place, and even some of the (unmentionable) happenings at the place!

Perhaps I should back up a bit. In case you didn’t read a previous post - who can blame you, some of these get a bit long winded and boring, and judging on the length of this one already, and the number of beers I’ve had, I’m pretty much expecting that this entry will also be quite long. But I digress. Po’ Monkey’s Lounge is an original, Delta juke joint! Its also one of the last remaining ones. Here’s a pretty decent site talking about the place, as well as about Monkey himself - http://www.southernspaces.org/contents/2006/brown/1a.htm.

Where was I? Oh, yeah, I wasn’t talking about Monkey yet, so don’t follow that link till later. Right now, I’m talking about Larry Grimes. He’s the guy that parked his pickup in the middle of the road and started telling me jokes, showing me the gold coins he carries in his wallet, as well as pointing out that the idea of “Dead Presidents” as a reference to paper money is a misnomer. He asked if I had a ten, but before I had time to wonder if this was a hold-up, he pulled out a wad of money and showed me Hamilton, who wasn’t a president, on the 10 dollar bill. Then, he asked who was on the hundred, and before I could even figure out who Hamilton was, he pulled out a hundred dollar bill and showed me Franklin, and said “He wasn’t a president. He just invented eye glasses and stuff”. LOL

Somewhere around this point a school bus came toward us from behind me, and when I suggested we move out of the middle of the road, Larry just smiled as the bus drove AROUND his truck! The driver opened the door and yelled “If it hadn’t been YOU, I’d run ya both over!” and laughed. Larry introduced us, telling me the driver also rides (motorcycles), and told the driver he was giving me directions to Monkey’s. I started wondering if maybe I wasn’t talking to the Mayor of the town or something. Turns out Larry is retired from Parchman, the Mississippi State Penitentiary where so many bluesmen have spent time and/or written songs about. He also makes….well…..steel art. Oh, I guess they call him an “Iron Sculptor” - http://www.arts.state.ms.us/folklife/artist.php?dirname=grimes_larry. Holy Crap! This guy REALLY is on the internet like he said! He was telling me about some of the things he made, and despite what the article says, he told me he’s sold quite a bit of his work and has a college fund for his kids. Then again, the article mentions “his wife”, so I’m guessing it’s a bit out of date. Let’s just say we spent QUITE A BIT of time talking at that intersection, and while they are “still friends”, they are no longer married. hahaha

Well, besides telling me all about Monkey’s – Okay, side story kinda – Basically, before venturing into an unknown place in the middle of the night to hear blues music, I usually like to run by during the day to find out where it is and to determine if I’ll be welcome. I mentioned I was gonna run over there and check the place out that day and Larry says, “Oh, the girls aren’t there today. He’s not open on Mondays when he’s working in the field.” What I hadn’t realized is that on Mondays, Po’ Monkey’s is a strip club!

Ooops, we aren’t talking about Monkey’s yet, are we? So, Larry tells me where he lives and how he has some of his art out in front of his place as well as some galleries and some work at Monkey’s – a steel monkey – go figure! He describes his helicopter that's on top of his shed and the tractors he makes out of sewing machines. I ask if I can stop by and check it out and take some pictures and he tells me no problem. He says “if you get too close to the fence, sirens will go off, but don’t worry”. SIRENS?

As we were parting, I told Larry I’d be there (at Monkey’s) on Thursday and he told me to be sure to bring my camera – “we have a lot of fun out there”.

So, here’s Po’ Monkey’s during the day. I’m glad I went looking for it in the daylight, as its a few miles down back roads, including a gravel, Po’ Monkey’s Road! Of course, since Monkey was out working in the fields (he drives tractor for a farmer), the girls weren’t there that day. LOL

Well, this has gotten long enough, so I’m going to call it “part 1” and get it posted. I’ll be back to tell you all about my journey the following Thursday to Po’ Monkey’s Lounge.

Life is Good.

Monkey ain't too poor.

Lon

Clarksdale and the Blues Highway

Remember Ronnie and Tammy from the “King Biscuit” entry (if not, go read that first)? Well, their friendship and generosity extended beyond the days leading up to and including the festival. On Monday following the fest, Ronnie called me to suggest I come over to their place to see if there was room to park my house and stick around for a while. As you can see, not only was there room, but I lived like a king on my own city lot for a week or so!

This put me right near the downtown, blues section of Clarksdale, MS, which if you’ve been keeping up, you realize is the center of a lot of the blues tourism in Mississippi. Now, I’m not saying that I wanted to hang out in “blues tourism”, but once you realize that besides the location, Ronnie was also a source of knowledge about many of the Delta’s artists and attractions, you’ll understand why I was so fortunate to be there! I was able to use this as my base for motorcycle rides and other adventures.

Here are a few pictures I snapped of some of the better known sites.




















On Friday, Ronnie and I went back to Helena and sat in on “Sunshine” Sonny Payne’s, King Biscuit Time, on KFFA! It’s the longest running blues show in the country, and Sonny’s been doing it for the past 54 years! We then stuck around the Delta Cultural Center’s studio for Terry Buckalew’s blues show, where Sunny guests. I’m not sure if it was an honor or not when Terry introduced me on the show as saying “Ronnie and Lon are here in the studio today. Lon showed up for the festival and still hasn’t left.” Yeah, well, like the rest of my friend’s, they’ll learn that an offer to “stay a bit” will be well taken advantage of! (8-)

Of course while in Clarksdale, I caught as much music as I could, including Bill Abel’s show at Ground Zero. Again, Ronnie knows these guys, so was a good source of recommendations of who to see. Here’s Bert Deivert from Sweden on the mandolin and Bill on the guitar.

Here’s Stan Street on the Sax and Mr. Tater joining them for a couple of his songs.





This is Po' Monkey's, one of the last remaining true juke joints in the Delta. The day this picture was taken, as well as the night we went are stories in themself and will have to be a future entry. Lets just say that the inside of the place is just as 'rustic' as the outside, but the people were warm and welcoming.

I enjoyed touring the Delta and again, I can’t thank Ronnie and Tammy and their ‘kids’, Biscuit and Delta, enough for putting up with Coffey and I!
Unfortunately, I didn't get a picture of Ronnie and Tammy together. This was Ronnie at Po' Monkeys. He was our designated driver, so could only have 1 drink that night.

And here's Tammy, second from the left, at Hopson's Plantation during the Pinetop Perkins Homecoming, along with Deb, Jennifer and Terry, some of their other blues friends they introduced me to.


Life is Good,
New friends are great!
Lon